Paying a homage to classic Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronographs while integrating distinctly modern elements, this ref. 5970 strikes an excellent balance between vintage and modern. One of the last few Patek Philippe watches to make use of a Lemania ebauche, the piece represents a shift for the brand into its modern form.

The ref. 5970 descends from a long line of impressive perpetual calendar chronographs, and was produced between the years of 2004 and 2011. While this was a relatively short run, the 5970 undoubtedly made its mark as it represented a shift within Patek Philippe, but also the ushering in of a new era.

To begin with, the design was influenced by Thierry Stern, a task given to him by Philippe Stern that was in essence a passing of the baton. Influences were drawn from Patek Philippe's history while adding modern touches that combined the best of both worlds. One place where this is especially clear is the dial design and proportions, which pays careful attention to the symmetry of the sub-dials and the addition of a tachymeter scale and seconds track, which differs from the previous ref. 3970, instead invoking the ref. 2499 and 1518.

The well-balanced dial features a slightly larger moonphase and date sub-dial compared to the earlier ref. 3970, but retains the classic 'typewriter-style' font for the numerals on each of the sub-dials. Meanwhile, the flat pushers on either side of the watch are somewhat reminiscent of ones found on the ref. 2499 or 1518, a further divergence from the rounded examples on the 3970. Rose gold indices and hands match the case, creating a coherent aesthetic that is distinctly classic in nature. The leaf-shaped hands are a nod to previous references, while the hour indices draw upon the 2nd and 3rd series of the 2499.

Two of the most distinctively 5970 characteristics relate to the lugs and case size. The angular lugs are both flared and faceted, creating a combination of curved and sharp edges. Furthermore, the case size was updated to 40mm, a contemporary size that marked a departure from the traditional 36mm found on the 3970, and cementing the watch's position as a modern classic.

The watch makes use of the calibre 27-70Q, and the reference 5970 is one of the last few perpetual calendar chronographs made by Patek Philippe to house a Lemania ebauche. This movement was heavily modified by Patek Philippe and is now widely acknowledged by collectors to be one of the most impressive calibres created. Aesthetically, the caliber is finished to the highest standards. The movement features exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping. To the wearer's delight, the movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5970R is in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear overall. The case remains unpolished and is one of the best examples of the 5970R that we have seen. The case retains the correct proportions and finishing, beautifully highlighted by the strong, sharp edges on the screw-down caseback. The frosted portion of the caseback shows light signs of oxidation, and the hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs are crisp and well defined.

The solid caseback has been well preserved with corresponding numbers. The movement is free from any signs of imperfection, both the chronograph and perpetual functions are working as one would expect and otherwise keeping excellent time. The watch remains on its original strap with gold spring bars and buckle.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.